Why Exosomes Are Becoming Increasingly Popular In Product Formulation

Unlocking the power of exosomes.

As skincare continues to evolve, new technologies are transforming how we approach skin health and rejuvenation. One such innovation capturing the attention of industry professionals is exosome technology. These tiny, nano-sized vesicles, although not stem cells themselves, are packed with lipids, proteins, and RNAs that enable them to facilitate cellular regeneration and communication in a powerful way.

With the ability to stimulate cellular processes, exosomes have shown incredible potential in enhancing skin texture, boosting elasticity, and improving overall skin quality. From addressing pigmentation to tightening lax skin, this advanced approach represents a breakthrough in how the skin can recover and rejuvenate itself.

To understand more about how exosomes are revolutionising skincare, we spoke with industry expert Joanne Healy, who shares her insights into this innovative technology and its future in both clinical and consumer skincare. Jo is a distinguished product innovator, cosmetic chemist, educator, and dermal clinician with over 20 years of experience in the medical cosmetic industry. Jo’s expertise in product innovation and development spans over six years, including two years as an independent Product Innovation Specialist.

Currently providing consultancy services to various medical, retail, and beauty cosmetic businesses; Jo’s role as a lead project manager for 4½ years was pivotal in the development of the Aspect portfolio, which includes Aspect, Aspect Dr, Aspect Minerals, Aspect Sun, and Aspect Platinum.

How do exosomes play a role in skin health?

Exosomes are indeed captivating nano-sized vesicles that facilitate intercellular signalling and communication. Although they are not stem cells, their rich composition of lipids, proteins, and RNAs makes them highly effective in promoting cellular regeneration. 

When applied to the skin, exosomes initiate a cascade of cellular communication, stimulating rejuvenation and significantly enhancing skin texture and quality. They play a key role in strengthening the skin barrier, tightening lax skin, and reducing the appearance of wrinkles and pore size. Moreover, they address pigmentation and oiliness while boosting skin elasticity and overall evenness.

What’s truly exciting about exosome technology is its integration of advanced skin science and clean chemistry, which allows the skin to function like healthy, youthful skin again, regardless of its original state. Exosomes provide essential nutrition and activate signalling pathways that optimise cellular communication, helping the skin to rejuvenate and recover more effectively. This innovative approach not only enhances overall skin health but also empowers the skin to regain its natural vitality, making it a game-changer in skincare. The potential for improved results with fewer side effects is an inspiring advancement in the field!

With a proven track record in the pharmaceutical industry, particularly with innovative products emerging from South Korea and the USA, exosomes are now making their way into the cosmeceutical market. Exciting developments are anticipated in Australia over the next year.

As Paul Buckingham, Managing Director at CeeChem Pty Ltd, noted, “Exosomes are before their time in Australia and New Zealand; we haven’t seen anything yet. We will see huge growth in exosome technology in cosmetics over the next five years, especially in the area of delivery.” This suggests a promising future for exosome-based treatments in the skincare industry.

What differences are there in human derived vs plant derived exosomes, if any?

Human-derived exosomes are indeed transforming the landscape of anti-aging treatments and hair restoration. As noted by Johanna Shepherd, a Cosmetic Nurse Specialist and Key Account Manager at Xytide, “Patients often see significant results after just one skin treatment, and they’re marking a major breakthrough in hair restoration that hasn’t been matched in 20 years”.

On the other hand, plant-based exosomes are emerging as a powerful tool in skincare. Their ability to efficiently deliver active compounds into the skin enhances absorption and targets skin cells directly. This means that well-known actives can be used at lower concentrations while still achieving impressive results.

The combination of human and plant-derived exosomes offers a dual approach to improving skin health and addressing cosmetic concerns. Together, they represent a promising future for more effective, safer skincare solutions.

What formulation challenges are there for exosomes in skincare?

Exosomes are relatively easy to formulate, but they thrive best in a neutral environment. They don’t interact well with acidic products like L-Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) or Retinoids (Vitamin A) and BHA/AHA’s. To maximise the benefits of exosome treatments, it’s advisable to apply these products at a different time of day or on alternating days from acidic formulations.

We’re also witnessing a rise in sterile exosome solutions entering clinical practice, allowing clinicians to apply post procedure to improve patient outcomes. While exosomes can absorb effectively over time due to their nano-sized nature, delivery methods such as microneedling, radiofrequency, or ultrasound can significantly enhance absorption. These techniques promote superior penetration, leading to better cellular communication and overall efficacy of the exosome treatments. This combination of methods is paving the way for more effective skincare solutions.

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