Taneesa Williamson Exploring the unique skin challenges posed by the Australian climate.
Australia’s harsh sun, high UV levels, and outdoor lifestyle create a perfect storm for skin dehydration and damage. From the dry, cracked texture of a compromised skin barrier to the fine lines accelerated by environmental stressors, hydration remains essential for maintaining healthy, resilient skin in your clients.
To uncover the science of hydration and why Australians, in particular, need more of it, we spoke to two experts: Dr Lee-Mei Yap, a medical cosmetic & laser dermatologist, and Nicky Laurie, a leading skin practitioner. Together, they explore the unique challenges posed by the Australian climate, the role of hydration in skin health, and the treatments that are redefining the way we think about skin care.
Nicky, what is your best approach to tackling skin hydration issues with patients?
Skin hydration comes first and foremost from a healthy skin barrier. It relies on a comprehensive approach that combines in-clinic treatments and an effective homecare routine. As we age and our skin’s natural hyaluronic acid levels decrease making it crucial to use products that help boost the skin’s ability to produce its own hyaluronic acid. The focus on skin health continues to grow, with intradermal hydrators and targeted serums playing a key role in enhancing hydration both in the clinic and at home.
Where do you find patients are often going wrong, or, even practitioners – when it comes to hydration?
This is my favourite question! Often, we simply just overdo it. The skin’s barrier is delicate, and it’s easy to upset it. Sometimes, less really is more. It’s important to focus on what our skin needs, not what’s trending or what works for someone else. A combination of targeted in-clinic treatments to support the skin’s hydration, along with a skin-health-focused homecare routine is key. Daily environmental exposure means we need antioxidants to protect and repair, as well as ingredients like Vitamin A to help correct the skin. Then we add in the targeted antiageing and hydrating serums. And remember, what you remove, you must put back in!
Does dehydration have any significant long-term detrimental effects?
Yes, dehydration ultimately affects skin health. It weakens the skin barrier, making it more prone to dryness, irritation, and sensitivity. Over time, this increased inflammation can speed up skin ageing, leading to fine lines and wrinkles as the skin loses moisture and elasticity. Dehydration also reduces the skin’s ability to repair itself, leaving it more vulnerable to damage from extrinsic factors like sun exposure, UV and pollution.
Dr Lee Mei, in your opinion, why do Australians experience such a lack of hydration?
Australia’s harsh climate, with some of the highest UV radiation levels in the world, presents significant challenges to skin health. A sun-seeking culture, active outdoor lifestyle, and a predominantly fair-skinned population prone to sunburn contribute to Australia’s world-leading skin cancer rates while also accelerating skin ageing and dehydration.
Sun exposure plays a pivotal role in skin health, determining how the skin ages, heals and reacts to external stressors. Prolonged exposure to UVA and UVB rays penetrates the skin at various depths, causing DNA damage and depleting essential components like collagen and hyaluronic acid, which are vital for structural support and moisture. Additionally, excessive exposure to infrared (IR) light, both natural and artificial, can penetrate deeply into the skin, exacerbating the effects of photo-ageing. Unlike UV rays, IR light is not blocked by most sunscreens, making it a persistent contributor to skin damage.
The effects of sun damage manifest differently across skin types, but all skin is susceptible to free-radical damage, leading to issues such as sunburn, pigmentation, sunburn, dryness, and uneven skin tone. For dry skin, UV exposure can further compromise the skin barrier, intensifying dehydration and leaving it flaky, cracked, and dull. Fine lines become more pronounced, and the skin becomes increasingly sensitive and prone to redness and irritation. This occurs as the skin’s water content diminishes and its Natural Moisturising Factor (NMF) is compromised due to a weakened skin barrier. These factors collectively highlight the importance of consistent sun protection and hydration in maintaining healthy, resilient skin.
What is hydration truly comprised of when it comes to skin?
Skin hydration is about maintaining an optimal balance of water within the skin, ensuring it stays smooth, plump, and resilient. This delicate balance depends on the skin’s ability to attract, retain, and distribute water effectively.
The outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC), acts as a protective shield and relies on two key components to maintain hydration: the Natural Moisturising Factor (NMF)—a group of water-attracting molecules within skin cells—and lipids such as ceramides and fatty acids, which create a seal to lock in moisture. When this system is disrupted, water escapes through transepidermal water loss (TEWL), leading to dryness, flakiness, and irritation.
Recent insights have advanced our understanding of how the skin holds and distributes water. Humectants like hyaluronic acid and glycerin act as “water magnets,” drawing and holding moisture in the skin. Hyaluronic acid, known for its ability to retain up to 1,000 times its weight in water, not only boosts hydration but also reinforces the skin barrier. Specialised proteins like aquaporin-3, found in cell membranes, function as water channels, transporting moisture into and between skin cells for optimal hydration. Additionally, tight junctions in the skin have been found to act as structural barriers to prevent water loss and strengthen the skin barrier.
These interconnected components—humectants, lipids, and water-transporting proteins—work in synergy to maintain optimal hydration levels. Think of the skin as a brick wall: the cells are the bricks, while the lipids act as mortar to lock in moisture and protect against water loss. When the barrier is weakened—due to ageing, dehydration or environmental stress—the skin struggles to retain water, resulting in dullness, dryness, fine lines, and increased sensitivity. For skin to remain healthy and hydrated, all these components must function optimally. Together, they provide the foundation for long-term skin health and resilience.
What types of treatments can patients benefit from when it comes to addressing skin hydration concerns?
Achieving optimal skin hydration is essential for maintaining healthy and radiant skin. A multi-layer approach is essential when targeting skin hydration. While a consistent skincare routine provides a strong foundation for hydration, combining it with advanced in-clinic treatments offers enhanced and long-lasting results.
In-clinic treatments are effective for addressing deeper, long-lasting hydration needs that topical products alone cannot achieve. Hydrating facials replenish moisture, leaving the skin refreshed and glowing while micro-needling can stimulate collagen production and enhance the skin’s ability to retain water for smoother, more hydrated skin.
With advancements in skin technology, there are now methods to supplement the skin’s moisture for up to nine months, offering long-term support for the skin barrier, making it an effective option for addressing fine lines, dullness, and dehydration.
While in-clinic treatments address hydration at deeper levels, a consistent skincare routine remains vital for surface hydration and protecting the skin barrier. Topical products containing humectants like hyaluronic acid and glycerin draw moisture into the skin, while ceramides and natural oils lock it in to maintain a healthy barrier.
By combining treatments that harness the hydration properties of hyaluronic acid and aquaporin-3 with a carefully curated skincare routine, this holistic, multi-layered approach ensures long-term hydration and enhanced skin quality.
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